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YUCATAN & THE STATE OF QUINTANA ROO
THE LAND AND SEA
The State of Quitana Roo (say kin-taw-nuh-row) is located on the east coast of
Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, bordered by the state of Yucatan to the northeast,
Campeche to the west, and the country of Belize to the south. Quintana Roo
occupies 50,350 square km and has a population of over 200,000. Mostly flat,
this long isolated state is covered with tropical forest and boasts the most
beautiful white-sand beaches on the Peninsula. Several islands lie offshore, and
the magnificent 250-km-long Belize Reef runs parallel to Quintana Roo coast from
the tip of Isl Mujeres to the Bay of Hunduras, whose undersea life provides
world-class diving. Chetumal, capital of the state, borders Belize, formerly
known as British Hunduras.
HISTORY
This stretched-out coastal region was ignored by Mexico longer than the rest of
the Peninsula because of its dense jungle and notorious Chan Santa Cruz Indians.
When defeated by the Spanish, many Maya took refuge in this coastal territory,
keeping would-be intruders easily at bay with their xenophobic reputation until
the beginning of the 20th century. The only real Spanish settlement, Bacalar, on
the southern end of the state; was destroyed twice, once by pirates and again
during The Caste War by rioting Maya. Quintana Roo was held as a territory of
the Republic for 73 years; then admitted as the 30th state to the United Mexican
States in 1974. Not until the 1970s were highways built, when Mexico finally
realized that Quintana Roo possesses all the elements of one of the most
beautiful resort areas in the world.
Naming A Territory
If you’re wondering how Quintana Roo got its name, it’s rather a
disappointing story. For many years the east coast of the Yucatan Peninsula
remained a desolate no mans land; it had no name because few if any people ever
spoke about it. But, when it became a territory it needed a name. As is often
the custom in Mexico, the territory was named for an army general, undoubtedly a
sterling soldier who deserved the honor. But sadly the man had not fought a
battle in, nor had he ever traveled to, the territory of this Caribbean
paradise. His name was Andres Quintana Roo.
ECONOMY
Until recently the economy of this lost territory amounted to very little. For a
few years the chicle brought a flurry of activity centered-around the harbor of
Isla Cozumel. Native hardwood trees have always been in demand; coconuts and
fishing were the only other natural resources that added to the economy---but
none on a large scale. Today the face of Quintana Roo is changing rapidly.
Tourism is its number one attraction thanks to the development of Cancun into a
multi-million dollar resort. Building and construction continues south on down
the Peninsula bring new roads which give access to until-now unknown beaches and
unseen Maya structures. By 1995 Cancun will have 25,000 rooms available to
visitors from around the world.
ISLA DE COZUMEL
INTRODUCTION
Cozumel (‘land of the swallow") is a Caribbean island surrounded by water
the color of imperial jade. Edged with stretches of white sand and craggy
castles of black limestone and coral, its shoreline is continually washed by an
inquisitive, restless sea. The island rose from the sea in the Pliocene or
Pleistocene epoch to its maximum height of 45 feet above sea level. At 47 km
long and 15 km wide it’s the largest of three islands off the east coast of
Quintana Roo---and the largest island in the Republic of Mexico. The other
islands lying off the Quintana Roo coast are Isla Mujeres and Contoy, Cuba is 95
miles north and Cancun is 30 miles northeast. Across a 3,000 foot-deep channel
that’s 19 km offshore, Cozumel was a sacred mecca for Maya noblemen who
traveled in large dugout canoes to worship Ixchel, the goddess of fertility.
A calm sea on the lee (west) side of the island makes it ideal for swimming,
diving, water-skiing, windsurfing, beachcombing, or relaxing in the sun. It’s
also the developed side, where clusters of buildings in the (only) town of San
Miguel de Cozumel houses 50.000 residents and visitors. Offices, shops, banks,
markets, hotels, restaurants, and two docks are concentrated in this small
seaside town. The east coast is another world, with few people and little
activity but dotted with isolated coves and bays, some with placid water, others
with spectacular surf crashing on the beach and spraying mist on passing
windshields. Clear water and the proximity of at least 20 live reefs make
snorkeling a must, even for the neophyte. Exploring the Maya ruins in the
overgrown interior of the island is an adventure by motorcycle, bike, car, or
foot. The people of Cozumel, in their quite way, are accepting and friendly to
the growing number o visitors who come each year. Although Cozumel, with its
lively discos and steady influx of divers and cruise ships, is more upbeat than
Isla Mujeres, it still lacks the jet-set feeling of Cancun---perhaps because it’s
a real town where fishing and diving flourished long before outsiders arrived.
Climate
The climate is warm year-round (average 80F). The heaviest rains begin in
June and last through October. It’s possible for rain to fall almost every day
during that time, but the unusual afternoon shower is brief and the ground
absorbs moisture quickly. In most cases any travel interruption is minimal,
though there are the exceptions. The rainy season occasionally opens up and lets
loose torrents. During wet months, expect high humidity. November through May is
generally balmy, with lower humidity and an occasional cool evening (average
78degF). But remember, tropical climes can change from mellow to miserable very
quickly---and then to mellow again.
FLORA AND FAUNA
Birds
In 1925, Ludlow Griscom from American Museum of Natural History was one of the
first ornithologists to discover Cozumel’s varied and concentrated bird-life.
Since then Cozumel has been considered a prime birding site; outside of town,
civilization has not intruded into their natural habitat. Except for the network
of above ground plastic water lines paralleling graded roads, the tangled brush,
tall trees, and occasional abandoned hut all ensure protected nesting grounds
for these exotic winged creatures. If you enjoy watching birds, then getting up
very early and trekking into one of the very swampy areas on the island is worth
the effort. One such place is located close to town behind the Sol Caribe Hotel.
Here, at dawn, you’re likely to see flocks of small multi-hued parrots, blue
warblers, macaws, and spindly-legged white egrets, while listening to a glee
club of sounds echoing through the trees and across the murky water. Another
marshy area that attracts fowl is just south of the junction where the
cross-island road meets the east shore. A large swamp, accessible by car,
parallels the coast behind the Punta Celerain Lighthouse.
Other Animals
Iguana and other lizards skitter through the jungles; armadillos, deer, small
foxes, and coati also call the Cozumel jungle their home. The iguana, more
visible than others because of its size and large population, is often seen
sunning atop rocks along the east shore or even in the middle of the warm paved
road that parallels the beach. Though the Iguana is described as timid and said
to move slowly, it slips quickly into its underground burrow or up the nearest
tree. The secret is not to be seen by the wary creature. (Photographers keep
trying it can be done!) The iguana found in Cozumel is commonly shades of dark
green, can grow up to two meters long, including its black banded tail, and has
a comb-like crest o scales down the middle of its back. Varicolored species are
found on the Yucatan mainland.
Plant-life
Cozumel has never been known for its agriculture, partly because of the shortage
of water. However, during the early 1900s chicle sap was gathered from numerous
zapote trees, which grow wild in the interior. Evidence of abandoned huts can be
seen now and then where farmers once tried to eke a living from the thin, rocky
soil. Coconut palms grew thick near the sea (before the devastating
"yellowing" disease destroyed many trees) and It’s still not unusual
to see a sprouted coconut bobbing up and down in the surf. Many coconut trees
take root that way, but if grown to close to the sea, they produce poor-tasting
fruit. Take a stroll through the cool botanical garden at Chankanab National
Park, where hundreds of tropical plants found on the island have been planted
and labeled. A small entry fee (US$2) gives access for the day to the lagoon and
beach.
Marine-life
Brilliantly colored fish, from tiny two-inch silver bait fish traveling in
cloud-like schools to the grim thick lipped grouper, lurk in and around
graceful, asymmetrical formations of coral reminiscent of their names, fan, and
elk. You’ll see rainbow hued parrotfish, yellow- and black-striped sergeant
majors, French angelfish, yellow-tailed damselfish, and shy silver-pink squirrel
fish with their big sensitive-looking eyes. In shallow coves, Daring Bermuda
grubs come up out of the water to eat from your hand; watch the teeth!
HISTORY
Earliest Maya And Spanish
Cozumel’s history alternates with bursts of unique activity and years of
obscurity. During the post Classic Period, Cozumel was not only a sacred island
but an important trading center. Artifacts, especially pottery remnants of the
female figure made in distant parts of Mesoamerica, were left by women who
traveled all over Quintana Roo to worship Ixchel at shrines scattered throughout
the jungle. At one time during the Caste War, the talking cross cult was active
on the island. After that era the island existed undisturbed until 1517 when, it
was briefly visited by Juan de Grijalva; who traveled from Cuba on a slave
hunting expedition.
He was soon followed by Spaniard Herman Cortes, who embarked on his
history-changing course in 1518. Cortes used Cozumel as a staging area for his
ships when he launched his successful assault on mainland Indians. It was here
that Cortes first heard of Geronimo de Aguilar, a Spanish shipwreck survivor of
several years before. Aguilar had been living as a slave with his Indian
captors. One story claims that when he heard of Cortes’s arrival, he swam 19km
from the mainland to meet him. Because of Aguilar’s fluency in the Maya
tongue, he became a valuable accomplice in Cortes’s takeover of the Indians.
Francisco de Montejo also used Cozumel as a base in his war on the mainland.
With the influx of Spaniards and accompanying diseases the Maya all but
disappeared. By 1570 the population had dropped to less than 300.
Pirates And Chicle
The sparsely inhabited island led a placid existence until the late 1600s when
it became a refuge for bandits of the sea. Pirates such as Jean Lafitte and
Henry Morgan favored the safe harbors of Cozumel, especially during violent
storms. The buccaneers frequently filled their water casks at Chankanab Lagoon
and created general havoc with their heavy drinking and violent fights,
disrupting life within the small population of Indians and Spanish. By 1843 the
island of Cozumel had been totally abandoned. Then refuges from the Caste War
began to resettle it.
Cozumel again became a center of activity when the chewing gum industry began to
grow in the U.S. For centuries, the Maya had been satisfying their thirst by
chewing raw sap from the zapote tree, which grows on Cozumel and throughout most
of Central America. In the early 1900s the developed world was introduced to
this new sweet, bringing an economic boom to the Quintana Roo coast. New
shipping routes included Cozumel, one of the best harbors along the coast
suitable for large ships. Several big companies made fortunes on the nickel-pack
of chewing gum, while the Indians who cut their way through the rugged jungle to
tap the trees managed only subsistence. Because of these gum companies, however,
obscure but magnificent jungle-covered ruins hidden deep in the forest were
discovered, fascinating the urban explorers. This was the beginning of a
large-scale interest in the Maya ruins by outsiders that continues in the
present. At one time the only route to Cozumel was by ship from the Gulf of
Mexico port Progreso. Cozumel’s shipping income dwindled gradually as
airstrips and airfreight became common on the Peninsula. In addition, synthetics
replaced hard to get Chicle and are now used almost exclusively in the
manufacture of chewing gum.
WW II And Cousteau
In 1942, as part of their defense network guarding the American continent, the
U.S. government made an agreement to protect the coastline of Mexico. The
American Army Corps of Engineers built an airstrip on Cozumel where the Allies
also maintained a submarine base. After the war, the island returned to relative
obscurity until 1961, When a TV documentary produced by oceanographer Jacques
Cousteau introduced the magnificent underwater world that exists in and around
its live reefs. Since 1974 statehood, Quintana Roo (including Cozumel) has
enjoyed (or suffered) a rebirth into the world of tourism.
The Mexican government is making progress developing its beautiful Caribbean
coast. For years it was believed that Cozumel itself would always maintain its
pleasant small-town ambience, with just a smattering of tourism to add spice to
the small island, and would never grow into a high-rise city; the water supply
cannot support an enormous increase of people, plus everything needs to be
shipped across the 19-km stretch that separates it from the mainland. But now
the word is out, and the historical "Land of the Swallow" has seen a
new desalinization plant and the development of hotels on San Francisco Beach.
SAN MIGUEL DE COZUMEL
Cozumel has only one city: San Miguel. Though it’s no longer a sleepy fishing
village, it still has a relaxed, unhurried atmosphere, a good selection of
restaurants from budget to gourmet, and hotels in every price range. Grocery
stores, curio shops, banks, a post office, telegraph office, dive shops, and
anything else you might need are available. The main street known either as
Malecon ("Seawall") or Av. Melgar, depending on which map you study,
extends 14 blocks along the waterfront. The main dock is at the foot o Av.
Juarez, in the center of town. Plaza del Sol, the large central plaza, boasts
modern civic buildings and an imposing statue of the late Mexican president
Benito Juarez. The surrounding streets are closed to vehicular traffic making it
a pleasant place to stroll, shop, and enjoy the tranquility of Cozumel. In
spring, masses of orange flamboyane (Poinciana) flowers bloom on the surrounding
shade trees under which local townspeople gather for festivals, religious
celebrations, or friendly chats. Cafes and gift shops line the north side of the
plaza.
GETTING AROUND
Getting around on the island is easy; it’s flat and the roads are maintained.
It’s easiest in the city of San Miguel. The roads are laid out in a
grid-pattern with even-numbered (calles) to the north of the town plaza,
odd-numbered (calles) to the south; numbered (avenidas) run parallel to the
coast. Travelers, especially backpackers, should be aware that only escorted
tourist busses make trips outside the immediate area of San Miguel. To go to
hotels north or south of own, either take a taxi or go by car. Escorted tours
around the island are available through any travel agency or your hotel.
Several transport options exist for exploring the outlying areas of the island
on your own---which everyone should do! Avenida Juarez begins in downtown San
Miguel at the dock and cuts across the middle of the island (16km), then circles
the south end. The road around the north end of the island isn’t paved.
Walking the flat terrain is easy, but distances are long. All of downtown San
Miguel is easily reached on foot. The 70 km of paved island roads are flat and
easily explored by bike (rented at Ruben’s. south side of the plaza, and 125cc
motorcycles are available to rent at several other shops in town. Remember to
bargain, at certain times of the year you’ll get a discount---supply and
demand.
Taxis will take you anywhere on the island and are available by the day; agree
on price before your tour begins. Traveling by cabbie is often a real bonus
since drivers know the island and its hidden corners better than most
guidebooks.
ARCHEAOLOGICAL SITES
Nine Maya sites are scattered across the island. A few are difficult to reach,
and only the hardy hiker will want to make the attempt. Most ruins on the island
are of the "oratorio" type: small square buildings, low to the ground,
with short doors that led early Spaniards to believe the places were once
inhabited by dwarfs (a myth no longer believed). El Cedral is the exception;
though the temple is small, major ceremonies were probably held on this site.
The story goes that a Maya site was destroyed when the U.S. Army Corps of
Engineers built an airstrip in dense jungle (now the location of the new Cozumel
airport).
El Cedral
Several of the ruins are easily reached by car or motorbike. Just beyond San
Francisco Beach on the main highway, leaving town, a paved road takes off to the
left and ends in 3.5km at El Cedral. Small and not enormously impressive, this
is the oldest Maya structure on the island. Amazingly, it still bears a few
traces of the paint and stucco of the original Maya artist. But the
deterioration indicates that hundreds of years have passed it by. A tree grows
from the roof, with thick, exposed roots interminably tangled in and around
stones of the ancient structure. Fat Iguana with bold black stripes tracing
their mid-section guard the deserted, mold covered rock structure; sounds of
cows blend with the songs of countless birds and the resonant buzz of unseen
insects. Located in what is now called a small farm settlement, El Cedral was
once used as a jail in the 1800s. Right next to it’s rustic, modern-era stucco
church painted vivid green. Go inside and take a look at two crosses draped with
finely embroidered lace mantles---a typical mixture of Christianity and ancient
cult, which some believe is associated with the "talking cross cult."
Aguada Grande
Aguada Grande is more difficult to reach. After crossing the island (via Av.
Juarez) to the beach, turn left on the dirt road and travel 21 km to another
dirt road going inland; its about a 2.5 km hike to the site. This is 0.75km
from the northern tip of the island, the Punta Molas lighthouse, and El Real
(30.5 km from San Miguel). The beach along here is difficult because of a rocky
shoreline---you make better time on the dirt road. At about km 12, prepare or
one of the most beautiful beaches on the island.
San Gervasio
San Gervasio is a well-preserved and recently reconstructed group of structures.
Travel east on Av. Juarez, then left (north) on a dirt road (look for the San
Gervasio sign) for approximately 10km until it dead-ends at the entrance to the
site. The silence of these antiquities looming in the mist of dense brush, with
only birds singing in the tall trees, overwhelms the visitor with an image of
what it must have been like centuries ago when only the Maya visited. San
Gervasio has a snack bar for cold drinks and is open fro 0800-1700, small entry
fee. Be prepared, guides will offer their services for about $10USD for two
people, a bit pricey when you can do just as well in this small area by getting
solid information at Cozumel’s museum (downtown) first and then buying the
green map, usually available at La Concha.
WEST SHORE BEACHES
Chankanab Lagoon
Chankanab, nine km south of San Miguel, is a national park. A small
crystal-clear natural aquarium is surrounded by a botanical garden of 352
species of tropical and subtropical plants from 22 countries, as well as those
endemic to Cozumel. The Lagoon contains more than 60 species of fish,
crustaceans, turtles, and intricately designed coral formations. This is a
wonderful shady park to spend hours watching underwater activity. The lagoon is
shallow, and until recently swimmers could go from the lagoon to Chankanab Bay
(on the sea) through underwater tunnels; the tunnels have collapsed and no
longer assure safe passage. Now there’s NO swimming. Don’t bring your crumbs
and stale tortillas: caretakers frown on anyone feeding the fish in Chankanab
Lagoon. Without the tunnels opening to the sea, scientists must work at
protecting life in the small area. Save food offerings for your short walk from
the lagoon to the bay, where hundreds of fish will churn water along the shore
to get a scrap of anything.
Chankanab Bay
This is a popular beach for sunbathers, swimmers, divers, and snorkelers to
explore limestone shoreline caves. Showy sea creatures have no fear of humans
invading their domain. For adventurous scuba divers, the coral reef, which is
close offshore, is two to 16-meters deep. A sunken boat, rusty anchors,
coral-crusted cannons, and an antiquated religious statue all make for eerie
sightseeing among the fish. A well-equipped dive shop is located here for
rentals, air, sales, and certification instruction. Several gift shops, a snack
stand, a restaurant are conveniently located near the beach where shade palapas,
fresh water showers, dressing rooms, and lockers are all included in the small
entrance fee of US$2.50. This is a national park open from 0900-1700 daily.
San Francisco Beach
Following the main road past Chankanab (14 km from town), you’ll come to Playa
San Francisco on the right. This 3.5km of busy beach has two open-air
restaurants, dressing rooms, bar, gift shops, volleyball net, wooden chaise
lounges, and snorkeling equipment rental (US$5 per day). During the week, it’s
relatively quite, but during busy seasons and on weekends it’s inundated with
tourists, many brought by bus from cruise ships that anchor in the downtown
harbor. San Francisco is also a popular Sunday destination for local citizens.
Fresh fish and Mexican specialties are served to the accompaniment of loud, live
music, romping kids, and chattering adults. The bay is usually filled with dive
boats attracted to nearby San Francisco Reef.
Beach clubs
on the main road from town going south toward San Francisco Beach, a small
balneario called Paloma Beach Club is a pleasant place to spend an afternoon:
good fresh fish and cold cerveza served at the outdoor café, white-sand beach,
and good swimming and snorkeling. More and more of these little beach clubs are
popping up along this area. Another one, Playa Maya, four km south of Chankanab,
offers a small, calm swimming area on a narrow strip of sand. A snack stand is
open daily, and you’ll find beach facilities, dressing rooms and a bar.
Isla De Passion
This tiny island in Abrigo Bay has secluded beaches and a rocky shoreline good
for underwater exploring (no cafes, restrooms, or any other facilities). Often
the destination of Robinson Crusoe picnic trips, it is now a state reserve.
WINDWARD BEACHES
South To North
From San Francisco Beach around the southern end of the island, are many
beaches. Some are good for swimming; some are dangerous for swimming but great
for beach combing. Add sunning, camping, and bird watching to provide more than
enough reason to visit this shoreline which stretches from Punta Molas at the
north tip to Punta Sur at the south. To visit beaches on the east shore north of
the island-crossing highway, take either a motorcycle or a 4WD for the unpaved
sandy road. If you rent a jeep for this trip, make sure that the $WD hasn’t
been disengaged by the rental agency. Because of its condition, the 24.5 km road
is seldom used, and few people see these beautiful beaches. If you decide to
hike along this coast, you’ll make better time in many areas on the road than
on the rocky portions in between sandy beaches.
The first two beaches, Santa Ceilla and Playa Bonita, are good beachcombing
spots, and Playa Bonita is a good camping beach (no facilities) For the real
adventurer, the Brown Map of Cozumel shows trails from this dirt road to various
little known Maya ruins, abandoned cenotes, and caves. This kind of jungle trek
requires carrying all essentials. From the Maya site at Castillo Real to the
north, no more sandy beaches come before the lighthouse on Punta Molas. Many
ships have sunk along this violent shore: cannons and anchors are occasionally
found to prove the legend.
Chen Rio
At the end of the cross-island highway is tiny Mescalitos Café. Turn right
(south) and the first beach is Chen Rio (km 42). Space for tent campers and a
few camping vehicles is on a broad flat area next to the beach. Chen Rio is also
the site of the only motel on the east side of Cozumel, Punta Morena. From here
the beach becomes Playa De San Martin and after that, Punta Chiquiero, with a
protected cove for swimming in crystalline water. A small restaurant, the Naked
Turtle, sits on the edge of a lovely crescent bay with white sand. A bar serves
Ceviche, snacks, hard and soft drinks; next door is the dining room. You can
camp on the beach---with a tent or vehicle---but there are no facilities. If
driving a RV, check with the restaurant owners before you park
Isolated Beaches
Along the highway from here to Punta Celerain is access to many beaches and the
remains of a few small ruins. A dirt road meandering parallel to the coast
behind sand dunes leads to Punta Celerain Lighthouse. All along this road you’ll
find paths turning out to the left, all leading to beautiful isolated beaches.
Along the dirt road a small conch shaped structure was restored. One of the
docents at the museum in town explains how the small openings at the top were
used as a warning---the wind blowing through creates a fog-horn effect.
According to archaeologists it was built between A.D. 1200-1400 as a ceremonial
center and navigational guide using smoke and flames tended by the Maya keeper.
Behind this small building, a dirt path over a sand dune goes to another great
beach for swimming, sunbathing, and beachcombing.
Punta Celerain
This lighthouse is four km from the main road. From a distance it appears white,
tall and regal; up close it needs a paint job. Next to the lighthouse is a army
base with soldiers on guard. An exciting spot, It’s well worth the detour to
wander around the point where a strong surf crashes over the irregular black
limestone shore in great clouds of misty surf, spraying tall geysers through
jagged blowholes. The family at the lighthouse is friendly, and usually you will
run into them on the grounds either doing their laundry or cooking. Ask to climb
to the top for a spectacular 360-degree view of the island (a tip wouldn’t
hurt); don’t forget your camera and wear comfortable walking shoes. The view
one way is a long strip of white sand with a lacy scalloped edge of turquoise
waves; in the opposite direction you’ll see red marshy swamps in the middle of
green scrub jungle; beyond it all---unending sea. On Sundays the lighthouse
keeper sells cold drinks and fried fish. The solders nearby often hike back to
the barracks carrying several Iguana ready to be prepared or lunch, much like
their ancient ancestors did.
Back on the paved road just as it rounds the curve and turns north, a large sign
warns of the consequences of taking turtle eggs. There’s a stiff fine for this
since the turtle is a protected species; they come to shore in large numbers
during the summer to lay their eggs. You’ll often find a soldier (with tent)
standing guard over the sign. This coastal watch keeps tabs on the boating
activity between Cozumel and the Yucatan coast; boatloads of illegal drugs are
frequently picked up along here. A return to the paved highway takes you through
the hotel zone and on into downtown San Miguel.
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